This report details a new climb up a route that I've been chasing for 5 years; thin ice, overhanging smears, a brittle curtain...all parts of our 18.5 hour first ascent up Passion and Warfare in Mt. Marcy's Great Chimney.
https://www.summitpost.org/passion-and-warfare-wi5-m5/1049621

...We walked to the base of the Den’s snowfield to have a quick glance at around small ice chips fell down. Helmets weren’t an option, but necessity even along the glade. We flaked the ropes and readied ourselves back at the “always wet corner.” A fat pillar formed the bottom 20’. This seemed straightforward. An offwidth crack, wider at the base, was partly occluded by the pillar, but could be seen immediately above. It appeared that a curtain may have covered most of it before the rain set it, but this was partially melted out leaving a few ice bridges and blobs on ledges.

Adam Crofoot, Allison Rooney, and I walked by an aesthetic crack during June of 2015. Allison and I returned to it yesterday while Adam worked a project across the valley.

Pioneering new ice on Mt. Marcy in Panther Gorge. This was a route I've been trying to "put up" for two years. True adventure! January's foray was with friends Aaron Courain and Alan Wechsler. visit adirondackmountaineering.com for the full story.

Two ice climbing routes, possibly the best ice ever I've climbed, went up with friends Laura Duncan (first woman to add a route in the remote Panther Gorge) and Brent Elliot. Both are located in a deep fracture on Mt. Marcy in Panther Gorge. Read the full account with route details, photos and video here: https://www.summitpost.org/scylla-and-charybdis-in-panther-gorge/1016838

http://www.summitpost.org/marcy-s-great-chimney-aka-empty-tomb-all-ryle…

Three rock climbs on Mt. Marcy. Full details above.

One of the best kept backcountry secrets is a large vertical trap dike capped with a diagonal car-sized capstone on Mt. Marcy. It is set in a northeastern facing cliff deep in Panther Gorge and looks like a pencil-thin shadow from the summit of Mt. Haystack. This is Marcy’s Great Chimney.

http://www.summitpost.org/panther-gorge-mt-marcy-anorthofright-5-9/1005…

A long multi-pitch rock climb up the overhangs and obvious white streak of Mt. Marcy's white scar. Steven St. Pierre and I added this route to Marcy on August 27. 2017. ...another 20 hour day in Panther Gorge, but well worth the effort. Follow the link above for a full report and photographs.

Copy/past URL for a full description: http://www.summitpost.org/panther-gorge-panther-s-pinnacle/1007725

Warm weather, 72 Fahrenheit at our house, was followed by a couple inches of rain. Then it cooled. The unseasonable weather created a veneer of hard crust and depleted the snowpack by roughly two feet. The conditions were ideal for a visit to the gorge. Veteran Alan Wechsler was on board to go hunt some ice. We watched the forecast during the week preceding March 10; predicted temperatures for the weekend dropped daily and, with wind-chill, settled at about -40 at the elevation where the climbs are located. We moved the climb to Friday so we’d be racing the oncoming cold weather.

The Feline Wall, about ¼ mile into Panther Gorge on Mt. Marcy, sometimes hosts a thin ice smear down its center line. It seems reliable in that it forms every year. The caveat is that it is thickest at the top where the water feeding it seeps from the krummholz. Sun heats the dark underlying stone and often delaminates the bottom portion. Whether it is bonded to the anorthosite when one visits, is a persistent wildcard.