What's Your Nature?
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Rock/Ice Climbing
Gothics North Face - 2019 November 23
Gothics always inspires. It challenges hikers and climbers of nearly any level and draws me back at least a couple times per year. The north face shown in this video once intimidated me when I saw it from the Orebed Trail, now it's an annual retreat. I feel only relaxation and freedom once I start moving upward.
Cascade Ice Dance (WI4) in Cascade Pass
Cascade Ice Dance is a Don Mellor first ascent from awhile back. It offers aesthetic and interesting climbing and a mixed start if the ice doesn't touch down as with our trip. Devin Farkas, Kennedy Quigg and I tackled it before heading downstream to another climb. This was well worth the effort.
Panther Gorge-Scylla and Charybdis
Two ice climbing routes, possibly the best ice ever I've climbed, went up with friends Laura Duncan (first woman to add a route in the remote Panther Gorge) and Brent Elliot. Both are located in a deep fracture on Mt. Marcy in Panther Gorge. Read the full account with route details, photos and video here: https://www.summitpost.org/scylla-and-charybdis-in-panther-gorge/1016838
Khyber Slide (Upper Wolfjaw) 2017: November Early Season Ice
Khyber's Slide on Upper Wolfjaw Mountain. Hunting early season ice with Dan Plumley and Loren Swears. The pitches run up to WI3 grade ice.
Marcy: Slacker Cracker/The Great Chimney/All Ryled Up
http://www.summitpost.org/marcy-s-great-chimney-aka-empty-tomb-all-ryle…
Three rock climbs on Mt. Marcy. Full details above.
One of the best kept backcountry secrets is a large vertical trap dike capped with a diagonal car-sized capstone on Mt. Marcy. It is set in a northeastern facing cliff deep in Panther Gorge and looks like a pencil-thin shadow from the summit of Mt. Haystack. This is Marcy’s Great Chimney.
Panther Gorge: Mt. Marcy: Anorthofright (5.9-)
http://www.summitpost.org/panther-gorge-mt-marcy-anorthofright-5-9/1005…
A long multi-pitch rock climb up the overhangs and obvious white streak of Mt. Marcy's white scar. Steven St. Pierre and I added this route to Marcy on August 27. 2017. ...another 20 hour day in Panther Gorge, but well worth the effort. Follow the link above for a full report and photographs.
New Routes: Mt. Marcy's Great Chimney (aka Empty Tomb) and All Ryled Up
Marcy's Great Chimney (aka Empty Tomb) & All Ryled Up-2017 June 15. (First ascent by Kevin and Jaryn DeShane) Mt. Marcy is home to a large vertical trap dike/chimney though it only looks like a pencil thin shadow from Mt. Haystack. Jaryn Deshane and I spent last Thursday on an intriguing climb, one that has taken 4 years to come to fruition. I didn't expect the route to be as clean or as varied. A couple sections had slightly overhanging trap rock..what a surprise.
Panther Gorge-Haystack-Ride the Lightning (WI5-) and Skip the Lighting-2017 March 10
Warm weather, 72 Fahrenheit at our house, was followed by a couple inches of rain. Then it cooled. The unseasonable weather created a veneer of hard crust and depleted the snowpack by roughly two feet. The conditions were ideal for a visit to the gorge. Veteran Alan Wechsler was on board to go hunt some ice. We watched the forecast during the week preceding March 10; predicted temperatures for the weekend dropped daily and, with wind-chill, settled at about -40 at the elevation where the climbs are located. We moved the climb to Friday so we’d be racing the oncoming cold weather.